The appearance is very clear, with a pale straw colour. At pouring the wine is slightly bubbly. On the nose the aroma is delicate, floral with some citrus and stone minerality, and a hint of hazelnut. In the mouth dry, with a pronounced acidity. Well balanced, with a subtle taste that last for a fairly long time.
Pleasant, but at 14.50 EUR not my favourite white Italian wine. Still, well made and nothing that can be lamented about this Arneis produced by Ceretto, a well-established winemaker, who own its fame mainly to two important insights of the brothers Bruno and Marcello.
The first in the 1960s, when they started selecting vineyards in the historically most valuable positions of the Langhe and applying the concept of Cru learned during a trip to Burgundy.
The second in the 1980s, when the two brothers demonstrated again their ability to forward thinking by understanding the new aperitivo culture that was taking off in Milan and Rome.
In 1985 Ceretto started producing and skilfully marketing Blangé, a white wine well suited to happy hours and finger foods.
Since then Blangé has become a driving force behind the rediscovery of this Piedmontese white wine grape variety in a region previously devoted exclusively to red grapes.
Traditionally, in Roero and in the Langhe, Arneis vines were sometimes planted next to Nebbiolo vines, but largely as a form of protection: the Arneis grapes’ stronger fragrance distracted hungry birds and insects away from the more highly prized Nebbiolo. In the winery, Arneis held an equally ancillary role and was added in small quantities to Nebbiolo wines in order to soften their robust tannins (similarly to the addiction of Viognier to Syrah in Côte-Rôtie)
In a story shared by several renascent grape varieties, Arneis has been rescued from the verge of extinction and is now enjoying something of a revival (again analogously to Viognier).
Blangé is definitely a success story of a well-positioned and marketed wine that went from from the 50’000 bottles produced in 1985 to an annual production of 600’000 bottles, coming from 80 hectares.
Nowadays Blangé makes up about 50% of Ceretto’s yearly production! A cash cow that allowed Ceretto to make important investments to improve the quality of their wines and pursue other family business.
Country: Italy
Region: Piedmont
Grapes: Arneis
Type: White
Vintage: 2017
Producer: Ceretto
Price range: Medium (15-30 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 3/5