Dabuki Feldstein 2021

The colour is pale straw. On the nose citrusy and nutty notes. In the mouth mineral, with a taste of apples and peanuts. The aftertaste is rather short.

Researchers have identified more than 120 grapes indigenous to the geographical area around the Holy Land. These include Biblical era white varieties like Marawi (a.k.a. Hamdani), Jandali and Dabouki, red grapes like Baladi Asmar and Bittuni, and more modern crosses like Argaman (a cross between Carignan and the Portuguese grape Souzao).

Some Israeli winemakers are working to bring the native grapes back into the country’s wine repertoire. One of them is Avi Feldstein. The producer of this Dabouki grapes-based wine.

At its peak, Dabuki was mainly grown in the Mount Carmel and Judean Foothills regions. The main use, apart as table grapes and as part of inexpensive white wine blends, was for distillation. In those days there was a large brandy market and Dabuki was considered ideal for distillation for brandy and arak. When the brandy market declined and the younger generation switched to whisky, the old Dabuki vineyards were grubbed up.

Feldstein makes its Dabuki in stainless steel but stores it on its lees and practices bâtonnage (stirring the dead yeasts periodically) to enhance complexity. His grapes come from the Judean Hills.

For this bottle I paid 109.90 Shekels (28 CHF). In my opinion wildly overpriced. The price may be justified by the biblical origins of the grape, but for sure not by the resulting drinking experience. Hence the low rating.

Country: Israel
Region: Judean Hills
Grapes: Dabouki
Type: White
Vintage: 2021
Producer: Feldstein
Price range: Premium (30-50 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 2/5