Granbussia 1974: This bottle, made one year after I was born, is among those that make it worth the multiple disappointments anybody brave enough to keep experimenting with very old wines necessarily goes through.
Having a deep passion for the wine-world, I’m one of them. My fascination with wine gives me an almost compulsory urge to try wines from anywhere in the world, made with any grape and in any vintage. I love diversity and the wide variety of experiences that a bottle of wine can give. But let’s be honest, it is very difficult to get a revealing moment by tasting very old wines. At most they are still drinkable and appreciable for their longevity.
This 45 years old Barolo made by Aldo Conterno, at first was no exception. It gave me and Mauro, my host, the impression that it was still drinkable, but basically gone. Only the pale garnet color was still very lively, which somehow contradicted the faint sensations on the nose and in the mouth.
Since, no matter what, I have high respect for old wines and I hate wasting, I suggested not to give up, to try decanting and see what would happen. What a surprise! After some 30 minutes the wine opened up and gave us a revealing experience.
This Barolo suddenly revived and started showing off, with an elegance that made me willing to savour sip after sip. The tannins typical of the Nebbiolo grape came on stage, complementing the freshness that has been there from the beginning, but alone gave a very unbalanced sensation.
Not having any prior experience with old vintages Barolo, I always wondered why this prestigious Piedmontese wine is often praised for its age-worthiness. After this bottle, now I understand better.
The fact that this bottle has been made in a good vintage by Aldo Conterno, one of Piemonte’s most talented winemakers, using grapes from Bussa, one of Barolo’s cru vineyards, certainly contributed in a significative way in creating this unique experience.
This bottle was offered to me along dinner. It is probably difficult to find it on the market, but as a reference, Granbussia sell in the 300 CHF range.
Country: Italy
Region: Piedmont
Grapes: Nebbiolo
Type: Red
Vintage: 1974
Producer: Aldo Conterno
Price range: Luxury (>100 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 5/5