The colour is medium gold. The aroma is a mix of citrus and peanuts, accompanied by a prickly sensation. In the mouth the wine is as rich and tasty as on the nose, with a very pleasant finish and a long aftertaste that reminds the first impressions recorded with the nose.
Heida or Païen is the name given to Savagnin Blanc in Valais. Savagnin Blanc is an ancient white wine grape indigenous of the sub-alpine regions of eastern France. Sylvaner (Johannisberg in Valais), Chenin Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc and Grüner Veltliner are considered among its offsprings.
In the Swiss canton of Valais, where it was first recorded in 1586, this white grape is usually used to make refreshing dry wines, while in the Jura region of France it is used to produce the Sherry-like Vin Jaune and the sweet, concentrated Vin de Paille.
To produce the peculiar Vin Jaune the wine is matured in barrel for several years under a naturally occurring film of flor yeast. During this maturation period the wine develops rich, nutty flavors similar to those found in the fino Sherries of Jerez. In my cellar I have a bottle of Vin Jaune 2010 that I’m planning to share in 2030 with a friend of mine and his son, who was born in 2010.
This outstanding example of Heida-Païen is produced by Reto Müller, an independent wine producer of Valais devoted to biodynamic. This wine is both Bio Suisse and Demeter certifies and sells for 42 CHF.
Country: Switzerland
Region: Valais
Grapes: Heida/Païen/Savagnin
Type: White
Vintage: 2016
Producer: Reto Müller
Price range: Premium (30-50 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 4/5