L
ast month I hosted another wine tasting event at my home. Four friends joined me to taste blindly six Nebbiolo based wines. What we found was much to our surprise.
Nebbiolo is one of the most prestigious grape varieties of Italy. It produces wines of very individual character that ranks among the finest and longest-lived in the world. The Piedmontese Barolo and Barbaresco are the most praised and pricey. We therefore had high expectations, but, to the general surprise, the first place didn’t go neither to a Barolo nor to a Barbaresco from Piedmont.
The winner was a Sforzato di Valtellina from Lombardy. A less prestigious DOCG, but represented by one of the best exemplars: Sfursat 5 Stelle 2009, produced by Nino Negri. A bottle I bought a few years ago directly at the winery for 50 EUR. On the nose cream mushrooms, in the mouth good acidity and well-integrated tannins. The aftertaste was very long and savoury. In all fairness it needs to be noted that to produce Sfursat the grapes get dried. Moreover, Sforzato can contain up to 10% of grapes that are not Nebbiolo (locally named Chiavennasca).
Next came a Barolo from Fontanafredda: Vigna La Rosa 2007. At first the nose reminded of cat pee, but fortunately the smell disappeared and left room to a more pleasant aroma of liquorice, with some nuts and tobacco. In the mouth well balanced. The aftertaste a bit on the short side. This wine sells for slightly more than 50 EUR.
Third place went to a wine from a lesser known denomination: Bramaterra Riserva 2015, produced by Azienda vitivinicola La Tur in Piedmont. On the nose rosemary and some strawberry. In the mouth light, with a rather short aftertaste. For this wine I paid 20 EUR. Also in this case it needs to be noted that a Bramaterra DOC can contain up to 50% of grapes that are not Nebbiolo (locally named Spanna), like Bonarda, Vespolina or Croatina.
A Barbaresco 2008 from Gaja, which you would expect to easily make it to first place, ended only fourth. On the nose very subtle, with a predominance of underground. In the mouth well structured. The aftertaste pretty long. A description that would make you expect a better ranking. In fact, I personally ranked it first, but I was the only one. On the other side, I was the only person who didn’t taste it blindly and may have got influenced by the label, as it is often the case with prestigious wines. This bottle sells for more than 200 CHF. To produce Barbaresco only Nebbiolo grapes are allowed, as it is the case for Barolo.
Fifth place went to Ornato 2015. A Barolo produced by Pio Cesare. It sells for 90 CHF. On the nose violets in a clay vase. In the mouth good acidity and well-integrated tannins. The aftertaste rather short. Hopefully it will improve with aging.
Last place went almost unanimously to Tettimorra 2005. A Barolo made by Scarpa that sells for 70 CHF. Unfortunately, the bottle was probably flawed. Although the nose still displayed some fruits, in the mouth the wine was flat and the aftertaste absent.
After the tasting we enjoyed the wines with a succulent roast accompanied by polenta. We finished the bottles with some cheese.
It was again an evening with fun, friendship and wine, one of the best combinations of all the things in the world.
Country: Italy
Region: Piedmont, Valtellina
Grapes: Nebbiolo/Chiavennasca/Spanna
Type: Red
Vintage: 2005, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2015
Producer: Fontanafredda, Gaja, Nino Negri, Pio Cesare, Scarpa, La Tur
Price range: Medium (15-30 US$), Extra (50-100 US$), Luxury (>100 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 3/5