Poggio del Cardinale 2019

The colour is pale gold. On the nose pineapple, apricot, golden apple, and some banana. In the mouth well balanced, smooth, with a tasty finish that last for a satisfying while.

This wine is produced by Antica Cantina Leonardi under the Est! Est!! Est!!! di Montefiascone DOC, a white wine appellation situated northwest of Rome, near Lake Bolsena, in central Italy’s Lazio region.

The unusual name of the appellation, with its officially enshrined exclamation marks, is linked to a legend. In the year 1111, Henry V of Germany marched on Rome to be crowded Emperor by the Pope. The legend tells that Defuk was travelling with him. It is not know if he was a nobleman or an ecclesiastic. It is said that Defuk, a great wine lover, ordered one of his servants, Martinus, to run ahead to discover where good wine was served. The servant should write on the gate of the city or the Inn the word Est (here is). Martinus was so taken with the wine from the village of Montefiascone that he wrote Est! Est!! Est!!! When Defuk arrived in Montefiascone, he liked the wine so much that he never went back to Germany. Because of the big amount he drank of it, he died two years later and was buried there.

This example is a blend of 50% Procanico/Trebbiano Toscano, 20% Malvasia Bianca, 30% Roscetto/Trebbiano Oro.

Trebbiano Toscano and Malvasia Bianca are well known and widely used grapes. Roscetto is an ancient white-wine variety grown in minute quantities. It is possible that the last remaining plantings of Roscetto vines are restricted to Montefiascone.

After I bought this bottle at a small market, I got interested in the winery. Since I found out it was located near where I was staying, I called and went for a visit. My host has been Quinto Ficari, who has spent more than 5 years in researching into the Defuk legend and wrote a book about it.

For this wine I paid 6.90 EUR in Montefiascone, 125 km before finishing my Via Francigena 37 days walk.

Country: Italy
Region: Lazio
Grapes: Procanico/Trebbiano Toscano, Malvasia Bianca, Roscetto/Trebbiano Oro
Type: White
Vintage: 2019
Producer: Antica Cantina Leonardi
Price range: Economic (<15 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 4/5