Ripassa 2013

This Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore DOC produced by Zenato welcomes you with a very pleasant and inviting fruity aroma, with hints of raisins, but not as pronounced as in Amarone. Sour-cherry under spirit, herbs, spices and chocolate can also be perceived. In the mouth not as rich as on the nose, rather drying and with an aftertaste dominated by the alcohol; although my perception of the 14% alcohol content may be increased by the fact that I tasted this bottle after 5 days of fasting.

After a while, the wine opens up and the mouth get filled with more fruity tastes, which linger through the aftertaste, and the alcohol’s perception decreases. Probably better to decant before serving.

Nowadays Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella are the three primary grapes involved in the production of the Valpolicella. Typically, wines labelled Ripasso, like this one, use the pressed skins of Amarone grapes to add color, tannins and complexity to the blend. To achieve this result the Valpolicella wine get added to the still warm “passito” grapes skins left over from the production of Amarone and stays in contact with the marc for an extended maceration, during which a second fermentation takes place.

Ripasso can be regarded as halfway between dry Valpolicella and Amarone wines. A technique used by the winemakers to improve the depth and complexity of their basic Valpolicella, which by nature tends to be rather light and simple.

In general, the wines produced with the Ripasso method tend to be appealing when judged superficially, but on a closer analysis, especially in the mouth, they may not be very balanced. The passito part, that clearly predominates the nose with strongly fruity sensations, has difficulty keeping up with the rather rough sensations imparted by the basis wine.

The “Ripassa” is made with 85% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta grapes. Overall, I find it a very pleasant Ripasso and can only confirm the enthusiasm of my father, who drank it while at Lake Garda and found it so special to bring me one bottle as a present to taste. It should be selling around 17 EUR.

Additional note: On August 25, 2020 I’ve been able to visit the winery in Peschiera del Garda. I had the chance of tasting some other wines Zenato produce. None really excited me. Ripassa sells for 14.90 EUR.

Country: Italy
Region: Veneto
Grapes: Corvina, Rondinella, Oseleta
Type: Red
Vintage: 2013
Producer: Zenato
Price range: Medium (15-30 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 3/5