Spain

Last month I organized a wine tasting focused on the main wine producing regions of Spain.

In the last few years, I travelled extensively to the different wine regions of Europe and I covered all the major denominations of Spain. I wanted to share my experience with some friends and at the same time compare the different wines in a single tasting.

We explored Binissalem, Priorat, Ribera del Duero, Rioja, and Jumilla through:

Gran Verán Seleccionado 2014: The colour is medium garnet. On the nose fruity notes of stewed plums with liquorice, coffee and leather. In the mouth elegant, with soft tannins and a discreet chocolatey aftertaste that unfortunately doesn’t last for very long. Gran Verán is made with 60% Manto Negro und 40% Syrah grapes by Finca Biniagual on the Balearic island of Majorca. Manto Negro is a dark-skinned grape variety found exclusively in Mallorca. A simple variety suitable for producing easy to drink reds. The blend with Syrah gives the wine structure and complexity. This bottle sells at Arvi for 48 CHF.

Clos Mogador 2015: The colour is medium ruby. On the nose cherries, cinnamon and liquorice. In the mouth the tannins are prominent but pleasant. The aftertaste is fruity and fairly long. I visited Priorat in August 2019. Clos Mogador was created in the 1980s by René Barbier, one of the pioneers of Priorat. The 2015 vintage is a blend of 45% Garnacha, 29% Cariñena, 16% Syrah and 10 % Cabernet Sauvignon. This bottle sells at Arvi for 65 CHF. I find it a fair price, given the region and the prestige of the producer.

Sei Solo 2013: The colour is deep ruby. On the nose tomato, prunes and chocolate. In the mouth nothing from the opulence perceived on the nose, and with a short finish. Sei Solo is a project of Javier Zaccagnini, former director of Ribera del Duero’s Regulatory Board and founder, with Mariano García, of Bodegas Aalto, which Zaccagnini left in 2018. When I visited Ribera del Duero 5 years ago, Aalto was the winery that impressed me the most. While touring the facility, I noticed a couple of artisanal vats. My guide explained that they were for Zaccagnini’s new project: Sei Solo! It is a single-varietal Tempranillo wine that sells at Arvi for 70 CHF a bottle. To my taste wildly overpriced.

Torre Muga 2015: The colour is deep purple. On the nose dark fruits, accompanied by some stable and tobacco notes. In the mouth full body, rich and elegant at the same time. Well integrated tannins and a long fruity finish. Delicious! I visited Muga in August 2018. I found it one of the most fascinating wineries of Rioja. One peculiarity of Bodegas Muga is that they produce their own barrels. The result are very smooth wines. Torre Muga is a blend of Mazuelo and Graciano with mostly Tempranillo. This bottle sells at Arvi for 84 CHF, and it is worth the price.

El Nido 2008: The colour is medium garnet. On the nose prunes and dark berries under spirit. In the mouth fresh, with well-integrated tannins. The aftertaste is tasty and very, very long. I visited Jumilla in August this year. The 2008 El Nido is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Monastrell, aged for 24 months in new French and American oak. The Bodegas El Nido project is the result of the collaboration of the Gil Family and Chris Ringland (one of the best enologists of Australia). This bottle sells at Arvi for 150 CHF.

Before the reds we tasted a bottle of Lamar 2017, a white wine produced by Bodegas Terras Gauda in the Rías Baixas region. A blend of 85% Caíño Blanco, 10% Albariño and 5% Loureiro. The colour is medium gold. On the nose nutty and citrusy aromas. In the mouth very refreshing, with a medium long aftertaste. Lamar sells at Arvi for 28 CHF.

As usual we enjoyed a very pleasant evening. For dinner we had some very special hamburgers prepared by one of the two friends that joined me for this tour of Spain. We were planning to be a party of six, but at the last minute three had to renounce due to COVID related reasons.

Country: Spain
Region: Balearic Island, Galicia, Murcia, Priorat, Ribera del Duero, Rioja
Grapes: Albariño, Cabernet Sauvignon, Caíño Blanco, Cariñena, Graciano, Grenache, Loureiro, Manto Negro, Mazuelo, Monastrell/Mourvedre, Syrah, Tempranillo
Type: Red, White
Vintage: 2008, 2013, 2014, 2015, 2017
Producer: Bodegas El Nido, Bodegas Muga, Bodegas Sei Solo, Bodegas Terras Gauda, Bodegas Clos Mogador, Finca Biniagual
Price range: Premium (30-50 US$), Extra (50-100 US$), Luxury (>100 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 4/5