On the nose strong balsamic notes. Caramel and prunes are clearly detectable. It reminds me of a brandy. In the mouth velvety texture. Very smooth and balanced sensation. Long lingering finish.
Judging from this wine, Taylor (founded in 1692 in Vila Nova de Gaia) is considered among the best Houses of Port for a good reason. Port is similar to Champagne. For sure not in color, effervescence, taste or alcohol content. What in my view connects the two regions is the underlying philosophy:most of the wines are the result of a blending art that aim at achieving consistency and uniqueness for the maison/house style. A more prestigious vintage version is reserved for the best years only. I have to admit that the similarities stop here.
In Champagne the blend and the vintage wines are made with the same basic process. In Oporto the production techniques between the blend and the vintage version differ considerably.
Vintage Port is made entirely from the grapes of a Declared Vintage year and the wines are matured in sealed glass bottles, without exposure to air. This very prestigious variety of port accounts for less than 2% of the region overall production.
Aged Tawny Ports are matured for years in wooden barrels, exposing them to gradual oxidation and evaporation. As a result, the wine gradually mellow to a golden-brown colour and acquire “nutty” flavours. The content of different barrels is then blended to match the house style.
Vintage and Tawny are the two main versions of Port wine and they get wide international recognition, but there are a few more varieties.
Ruby Port is the cheapest and most extensively produced type. After fermentation, it is stored in tanks of concrete or stainless steel to prevent oxidative aging and to preserve the bright red colour and full-bodied fruitiness. The wine is usually blended to match the style of the brand under which it is to be sold.
A Colheita Port is a single-vintage wine aged in tawny style. Late bottled vintage (LBV), Crusted Port and some other styles are also produced.
The basic element behind Port, that differentiates it from a regular wine and makes it a fortified wine, is the addition of alcohol before the end of the grape juice’s fermentation. This addition kills yeasts and blocks the process. The two main influences on the resulting wine are: a higher sugar content, since not all sugar get transformed into alcohol, and a higher alcohol content (17% to 20%), since spirit is added.
The list of grapes varieties sanctioned for Port production is very long (30 are recommended and 82 permitted for Red Ports); although nowadays only five are widely cultivated and used: Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Roriz (Tempranillo), Touriga Francesa, and Touriga Nacional. White Ports are produced using other white grapes.
Tawny Ports can be made in 10, 20, 30 and 40 years versions. The age indicating a target age profile, not necessarily the minimum average age of the ports constituting the blend; although this seems to be the case at Taylor’s. It is also highly correlated with price. As an example Taylor 10 costs some 30 CHF, Taylor 20 can be purchased for 70 CHF, for Taylor 30 you have to pay around 170 CHF and Taylor 40 reaches 250 CHF.
Tawny Port’s underlying philosophy reminds me of the one at the base of whisky, where the age also indicates a “product line” (although in whiskies the age also define the youngest whisky in the bottle).
As with whiskies, the price skyrocket with the age, but not necessarily the consumer enjoyment, this depends more on the preferences of the taster than on the characteristics of the blend. As an example from my experience, while visiting Taylor’s in Port four years ago I did prefer the 20 years old blend compared to the 10 or 30 years old ones. I had the same experience in 2011 at Macallan in Craigellachie: the whisky I enjoyed more was neither the oldest nor the most expensive.
Historically there is a connection between Port and both France, home of Champagne, and Britain, home of whisky. In fact, the Port trade has been boosted as a consequence of the War of the Spanish Succession between France and England.
Port became very popular in England after the Methuen Treaty of 1703, when merchants were permitted to import it at a low duty, while war with France deprived English wine drinkers of French wine.
This historical heritage became apparent to me when I visited Oporto and Vila Nova de Gaia in 2014. To these days the continued British involvement in the port trade can be seen in the names of many port Shippers and brands: Croft, Dow, Graham, Offley, Sandeman and Taylor, to name just a few.
One closing note: beside producing an amazing product, Oporto is also a very charming city.
Country: Portugal
Region: Porto
Grapes: Tinta Barroca, Tinta Cão, Tinta Roriz, Touriga Francesa, Touriga Nacional
Type: Fortified wine
Vintage: N/A
Producer: Taylor Fladgate
Price range: Luxury (>100 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 4/5