The colour is medium gold, although the name would suggest a yellow. On the nose nuts, dried fruits and panettone. In the mouth good acidity and a prickly sensation. The aftertaste is savoury and very long.
Vin jaune is a special and characteristic type of white wine made in the Jura region of eastern France. It is similar to dry fino Sherry and gets its character from being matured in a barrel under a film of yeast, known as the voile, on the wine’s surface. Vin jaune shares many similarities with Sherry, including some aromas, but unlike Sherry, it is not a fortified wine. The wine is made 100% with Savagnin grapes, which are picked late in the season for optimal ripeness.
The grapes are fermented slowly and then kept in small old oak casks that hold 228 litres. The casks are not topped up, as they are with most wines, so an air gap appears above the wine due to evaporation. A film of yeast grows over the wine, protecting it partially (but not totally) from oxidation.
The wine has to age for six years and three months. At the end, supposedly only about 62% of the original wine remains. The vin jaune is then bottled in special squat bottles that hold 62 cl, called clavelins. Historically the bottle size alludes to the amount of wine left over after six years of aging and evaporation.
The Appellation d’origine contrôlée regions permitted to produce vin jaune are: Château-Chalon AOC, Arbois Vin Jaune AOC, Cotes du Jura vin Jaune AOC and Vin Jaune de L’Etoile AOC. Château-Chalon is regarded as the unofficial grand cru. Some of the most premium examples of vin jaune are in fact from the marl based vineyards in this AOC.
The general consensus is that a bottle should be opened a full 24 hours before the wine is consumed, to allow for the dissipation of various compounds that develop over the extended ageing period, and to allow the wine to breathe.
This exemplar is produced by Fruitière Vinicole de Voiteur. When I visited the region in August, I tasted a few and bought three. For this one I paid 28.30 EUR at a store near Arbois.
Country: France
Region: Jura
Grapes: Savagnin
Type: White
Vintage: 2012
Producer: Fruitière Vinicole de Voiteur
Price range: Premium (30-50 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 3/5