X

The colour is medium garnet. On the nose a bouquet of eucalyptus, tobacco, menthol and balsamic notes. In the mouth pleasantly lighter and fruitier than I was expecting, well balanced and with a savoury finish that let be enjoyed for quite a while.

This wine, named X, is as eclectic and unique as its producer. It is a blend of Cabernet Franc, Carminoir, Arinarnoa, Syrah and Merlot. Made out of three vintages: 2010, 2011 and 2013.

Merlot and Cabernet Franc are well known grape varieties from Bordeaux. Arinarnoa is a dark-berried variety, bred in 1956 in Bordeaux. Initially it was considered a crossing of two Bordeaux grape varieties: Merlot and Petit Verdot. More recent DNA research has revealed it to be instead a crossing of the pyrenean Tannat with the bordelaise Cabernet Sauvignon. Syrah is the signature grape of the Rhône valley, while Carminoir is a dark-skinned grape variety from Switzerland, first obtained in 1982 by crossing Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir.

This rarity has been gifted to me directly by the producer, Mattia Bianda, who owns Azienda Agricola Avvenire in Losone. He makes some wine, but his main focus is the cultivating of grapes and I’m told he is very good at it.

With the emphasis given to the winemaker and the winemaking process, we tend to forget the importance of the raw material: the grapes. To make a good wine they are a necessary although not sufficient condition. A bad winemaker can ruin good grapes. A good winemaker can fix mediocre grapes. But to produce an outstanding wine an excellent winemaker needs top-class grapes.

I drank this wine from a Magnum with two dear friends. We all highly enjoyed it till the last drop.

Country: Switzerland
Region: Ticino
Grapes: Cabernet Franc, Carminoir, Arinarnoa, Syrah, Merlot
Type: Red
Vintage: 2010, 2011, 2013
Producer: Cantina San Giorgio
Price range: Premium (30-50 US$)
Pascal’s Enjoyment Index: 4/5